Portugal through the senses – Chapter 2: The tastes of summer

Nana Guerreiro
Jul 11
5 min read

The tastes of summer

Olá. Welcome back to Portugal Through the Senses.

If you’re joining this journey, let me remind you what this is about. My name is Peppe, and I run Portugal Journeys with Peppe, offering private tours that go beyond the usual sightseeing checklist.

For me, showing people Portugal isn’t only about monuments or scenic views. It’s about helping them feel the country the way we locals do. That’s why I created this series—to share Portugal one sense at a time.

Because here, the senses matter. They’re how we know where we are.

Who we are.

And if there’s one sense that truly captures Portugal’s summer soul, it’s taste.

Taste is memory. It’s culture passed from generation to generation, sometimes without even writing it down. It’s the story of this place, served on a plate, in a glass, or wrapped in paper at a festival stall.

When you visit Portugal in summer, you’ll find that the food and drink aren’t simply fuel—they’re an invitation to slow down and share in something older and larger than yourself.

Think about grilled sardines. They’re not fancy. They’re humble. But in June and July, entire neighborhoods fill with the smell of sardines sizzling over charcoal. In Alfama, Madragoa, Bairro Alto, you’ll see old men in aprons tending fires in the street, flames dancing under the grate. The fish crackle and spit. The air is thick with smoke and laughter and music. You buy a plate, fingers greasy with olive oil, bread on the side to mop up every last drop. There’s no ceremony except for eating together. I love guiding guests through these festas. They expect a show for tourists, but they get something better—a real neighborhood party.

No one’s trying to impress you. They’re just happy to share.

Or picture yourself at a seaside tasca in Sesimbra after a long morning exploring the cliffs and coves of Arrábida with me. We order peixe grelhado—maybe robalo or dourada—grilled simply, served whole with a drizzle of olive oil, a squeeze of lemon. The waiter brings batatas cozidas and a salad of tomatoes and onions so ripe they taste like the sun. The fish is so fresh it barely needs anything at all.

That’s Portuguese summer cooking at its best.

Honest. Confident. Uncomplicated.

There’s also amêijoas à Bulhão Pato. Clams cooked in garlic, olive oil, white wine, and cilantro, served with crusty bread to soak up the sauce. The sound of the shells knocking against the plate as you search for the last one. The clink of glasses filled with cold vinho verde, slightly fizzy, just acidic enough to cut through the richness.

When I take guests to my favorite spots, I want them to taste this. Not the overpriced, overdecorated plates on tourist streets, but the places where the waiter nods at me because he remembers what I always order. The places that feel like someone’s living room with too many chairs crammed in.

I always say food here isn’t just about eating. It’s about time. Meals aren’t rushed. Lunch can take two hours if you do it right. There’s talk. There’s a negotiation about what to order. There’s always room for dessert or at least coffee.

Ah, coffee. The bica. It’s small, black, and strong enough to wake you even after a bottle of wine at lunch. But it’s not really about the caffeine. It’s about standing at the counter with locals, listening to the banter, and greeting the staff.

If you sit outside, you watch the street live its life in front of you, waiters calling orders, neighbors exchanging gossip.

Summer afternoons are made for sobremesas too. Maybe a slice of tarte de amêndoa. Or something cold and creamy like serradura. In the Alentejo, you might get sericaia with plums stewed in red wine. I can’t count how many times a guest has told me they “don’t really eat dessert” and then asked for seconds.

Then there’s the fruit. Markets in summer overflow with color.

Pêssegos, nectarinas, melancia, cerejas from Fundão. The smell alone is enough to make you stop walking and buy a kilo you’ll eat in one sitting.

I love taking guests to Mercado do Livramento in Setúbal or Mercado da Ribeira in Lisbon. Not the polished, curated version for tourists—but the real stalls where old women sell the tomatoes from their backyard, where the fish are so fresh you half expect them to jump.

And the wine? Portugal in summer begs for vinho verde—served cold, almost spritzy, low in alcohol so you can have that second glass. Or a crisp white from Setúbal. Or a bold Alentejo red when the evening turns cooler.

I often end my tours with guests at a tiny tasca or miradouro with a bottle of wine between us, watching the city lights come on as the air cools, talking about everything and nothing. Because for me, that’s what taste is really for. Connection.

That’s what I hope you’ll discover when you come here.

That taste in Portugal isn’t a performance for visitors. It’s an invitation to be part of something shared. So when you visit, don’t rush your meals. Order the daily special even if you don’t know every word on the menu. Buy fruit from the old man at the market who weighs it with battered brass scales. Sit down for a coffee even if you think you don’t have time.

Because the tastes of summer here are more than food.

They’re our culture, our history, our welcome.

And if you’d like, I’d love to show them to you myself.

Até breve.

– Peppe

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So, What Are You Waiting For?

Lisbon is waiting. Portugal is in full bloom. The beaches are shining. The food is calling. And I’m here, ready to make this your best summer yet.

Whether it’s your first time in Portugal or your fifth, July and August offer something special — a kind of relaxed joy that you’ll carry with you long after the season ends.

Let me show you around - Day tours from Lisbon

Sintra & Cascais Tour: Palaces, gardens, ocean views, and pastel de travesseiro? Say less. I’ll guide you through Pena Palace, Quinta da Regaleira, and we’ll end the day by the sea.
Fátima, Nazaré & Óbidos: Spiritual peace, monster waves, and medieval charm in one perfect day. You won't regret it.
Évora & the Cork Trees: History, wine, and a side of something unexpected.
Setúbal - Palmela: Wine, views, and the stunning Arrábida coastline — with dolphins if we’re lucky. It’s the kind of day that makes you fall in love with Portugal all over again.
Remember: I can also take you on a Lisbon half day tour — quick, fun, and packed with hidden gems only a local would know

With Portugal Journeys With Peppe, all you have to do is show up ready to smile, eat, explore, and maybe dance a little.

My Fleet

No matter your group size or travel style, I’ve got the wheels to match — from comfy SUVs to spacious minibuses and a full-size bus for the party people. Let’s ride in comfort and style!